Mbabane – Praia do Tofo (27.387 km)

Mozambique

Inhabane

Praia do Tofo

The dog is throwing the stick to Matteo

Fisherman on the beach

Tha dawn

The bar on the beach

Looking for sharks

A big big big shark

Matteo swimming next to the shark

Praia do Tofo team

Mentre risalivamo la costa del Mozambico ho avuto come l’impressione di essere ritornato in Africa. Il paesaggio e le persone sono gli stessi che abbiamo incontrato tra il Kenya ed il Botswana e non hanno nulla a che vedere con quelli del Sud Africa. A Praia do Tofo (S 23 51,119’ E 35 32,605’) ci siamo rilassati per cinque giorni guardando le grandi onde dell’oceano Indiano dal piccolo bar sulla spiaggia sotto un tetto di foglie di palma. Abbiamo anche fatto un po’ di surf ed io sono riuscito a realizzare un altro grande sogno che mi portavo dietro fin da bambino: mi sono immerso in mezzo a tre enormi manta ray ed ho nuotato fianco a fianco con uno squalo balena di sei metri. E’ stato incredibile. Sono riuscito a stargli proprio vicino. Ma il momento piu’ emozionante e’ stato quando mi ha guardato dritto in faccia con uno dei suoi piccolissimi occhi.
Colonna Sonora: “Surfin Safari” The Beach Boys

While cruising up the Mozambico coast I had the impression to find myself back in Africa. The countryside and the people here look very much the same as the landscapes and the people we met between Kenya and Botswana. They have nothing to do with South Africa. At Praia do Tofo (S 23 51,119’ E 35 32,605’) we relaxed for five days. Nothing much to do but contemplating the big waves of the Atlantic Ocean from a tiny beachfront bar under a palm-leaf roof. We spent some time surfing and I accomplished another great dream I was longing for since I was a child: I plunged in the water among three huge manta rays and swam side by side with a 6-meter whale shark. It was unbelievable, we were indeed very close to each other! The most exciting moment was when the shark looked at me right in the middle of my face from one of his wee wee eyes.

Soundtrack: “Surfin Safari” The Beach Boys

Jo'burg - Swaziland

black napolean

my cousin aidan really liked my bike gear.

aunty sue and beardo weirdo

such a cool idea.

We cruised from joburg for Swaziland. we foud ourselves in africa again. cows roaming around the border post. we stayed at my aunty, sue dowding. with her husband tom and aidan her son. it was so wonderful to see some family again. after 7 months of being on the road. we drank lots of tea, chilled out and visited some of her many artistic friends in and around the capital. i was so inspired by all the creative energy there that i decided to get into wood carving. we visited house on Fire. which is a family run theatre and creatve hub. and african goudesque/hindusim feel to the place. they also did these beautiful wood carvings that were receiving astounding sucess nationally. it is so wonderful to see contemporary artists embracing local culture and creating fresh work.

Johannesburg - Mbabane (26.555 km)

Quando siamo arrivati tra le montagne dello Swaziland abbiamo finalmente potuto apprezzare il paesaggio che fino a quel momento era stato piuttosto noioso. Vicino a Mbabane siamo andati a visitare un bellissimo spazio multifunzionale allestito da Jiggs Thorne ed alcuni amici locali. Qui vengono organizzati concerti, esposizioni, festival ed eventi artistici e culturali di ogni tipo. Ma la cosa che piu’ mi ha affascinato e’ stato il posto in se’. La “House on fire” (S 26 26,236’ E 31 11,166’) e’ un vero e proprio museo a cielo aperto in continua espansione. Jiggs ha iniziato a realizzarlo con tanta pazienza circa otto anni fa e sembra non dover giungere mai ad una conclusione. Ispirandosi a Gaudi’ e’ riuscito a creare questo gioiello attraverso una commistione di stili afroeuropei e locali. Ho girato per un bel po’ all’interno di questo locale ammirando ogni singolo particolare e sognando un giorno di poter costruire una casa tipo questa da qualche parte per il mondo.
Colonna Sonora: “Burning down the house” Talking Heads

When we finally got to the mountains in Swaziland we were rewarded with stunning views, and that was good, because the panorama had been rather boring all the way through. Close to Mbabane we visited a beautiful multi-functional complex set up by Jiggs Thorne and some local friends of his. They organize concerts, exhibitions and festivals here, as well as art and cultural events. The place itself is beautiful, and I was very impressed. The “House on Fire” (S 26 26,236’ E 31 11,166’) is an open-pit museum getting larger and larger every day. Jiggs started with it about eight years ago and it seems like the place is never going to be finished. Taking inspiration from Gaudi’, he created this gem combining afro-european and local styles. I spent a lot of time wandering inside this museum and could take in every single detail, dreaming that one day I will be able to build a house like this somewhere around the world.

Soundtrack: “Burning down the house” Talking Heads

Jo'burg bike maintenance

Kristof and Mark getting their hands dirty

some of our desmo buddies

Ducati Sandton. the team. thanks a million guys for all your wonderful support.

my bent rim. air is seeping out. losing a bar a day. this happened in botswana.

matt getting busy

my seat shaft... fixed african style.

that nice crack that ended my advetnures in namibia.

Gabi, ducati president of south africa. grande grande gabi vai piano ne!

It all started off while i was in the middle of the salt pan. i was sleeping beside my bike and by chance saw a massive crack on my engine casing right where the engine mount bolt went in. wow i thought... thats big. i did a routine check and found that my seat adjustment shaft was broken, again. ok i thought. thats it... im walking outta here. about 70km. would have taken me about 2 days of solid walking. i had enough water... in the end it turned out alright. i fixed the seat shaft momentarily (bush solution) an decided to make for joburg where i knew our friends Ducati Sandton would help me out. and what a lovely reception! After much shaking of heads by kristof and mark and a helluva lot of work we got her back on the road. the list was: 1.) redo valve clearances. 2.) new oil filter, air filter, plugs, oil etc. 3.) fix up the front fairing i destroyed in my kenyan crash - it was hanging on with cable ties. 4.) new chain and sprocket set - my front sprocket's teeth were bent. 5.) move the exhaust back, it was rubbing on my swingarm and causing a terible racket. 6.) give her some love and attention. 7.) a little kiss. 8.) oh yeah, and weld the nice fat crack in the engine! Ducati Sandton were just fantastic. they put us up, and gave us everything from a place to sleep to the best coffees in africa. a big thanks goes to Theoni, Peter, Joe, Gabi, Kristof, Mark and Kim. Thanks for all the lovely dinners and tlc. we really needed it.

Bike Maintenance

Krzysztof and Mark with my new tyre

My lady is shining

The beautiful Ducati Sandton workshop

Il pneumatico della ruota posteriore si e' consumato prima del previsto. Ancora prima di arrivare a Johannesburg ha iniziato a perdere aria direttamente dalla gomma (che oramai era diventata sottilissima) costringendomi a fermarmi a tutte le stazioni di servizio per ripristinare la giusta pressione d'aria. Cosi’ ho portato la motocicletta all'officina Ducati di Sandton (uno dei concessionari piu’ belli che abbia mai visto). Qui ho trovato delle persone stupende. Hanno fatto tutto il possible per aiutarmi e riconsegnarmi la moto il piu’ presto possible. Veramente un ottimo lavoro, forse addirittura piu' del necessario. Oltre ad aver sostituito il pneumatico posteriore hanno anche cambiato l'olio, il filtro dell’aria, il filtro della benzina, regolato la cinghia di trasmissione, e pulito la catena.
Ora grazie a Paul, Theoni, Brian, Krzysztof, Mark e Gabriella la mia motocicletta e’ tornata come nuova.

The rear tire wore out before I expected. Before Johannesburg the air kept slipping out of the tire (which was now very thin) and I had to stop at each and every gas station to inflate the right air pressure into it. So I decided to take my bike to the Ducati workshop in Sandton (one of the most beautiful workshops I’ve ever seen). I found wonderful people there. They did everything they could to help me and give the bike back to me as soon as possible. Great work, maybe even more than what was strictly necessary. They changed the bike’s rear tire, as well as oil, air filter, gas filter and driving belt. They even cleaned up the chain. My bike was brand new once again. Thank you very much Paul, Theoni, Brian, Krzysztof, Mark and Gabriella.

Regina Mundi Church

Il calcio ha sempre avuto un ruolo fondamentale nella vita delle persone di questo continente, specialmente per le classi meno abbienti. In Sud Africa in particolare questo sport e' diventato piu' di ogni altro simbolo dell'assurdita' dell'apartheid. Fin dalla sua creazione nel 1892 la Football Association of South Africa ha ammesso unicamente giocatori di razza bianca. Tutti i non bianchi si sono dovuti organizzare in associazioni autogestite. Nonostante cio' il calcio ha proliferato in tutti i sobborghi sudafricani e ogni settimana i tifosi si riversavano negli stadi per vedere le magie dei propri idoli come Jomo Sono e Kaizer Motaung. Ancora oggi il calcio e' lo sport piu' seguito e piu' praticato in Sud Africa (conta piu' di 2 milioni di tesserati) e per le persone piu' povere ha da sempre rappresentato una via di fuga dai problemi e dalle difficolta' della vita di tutti i giorni.
L’Associazione Muti Onlus ha deciso di inserire tra i beneficiari del progetto umanitario “Una Scarpa per un Sogno” i bambini di Soweto.
Al piu’ presto verra’ spedito un carico di materiale sportivo dall’Italia che verra’ distribuito ai bambini meritevoli con la collaborazione del, parroco della chiesa Regina Mundi di Soweto che garantira’ che le scarpe ed il resto delle attrezzature sportive vengano consegnate ai bambini bisognosi e meritevoli che rispettano l’obbligo primario di frequenza scolastica e che si comportano in modo corretto.

Soccer has always been fundamental in the life of African people, especially for the poor. Particularly in South Africa, this sport has become the symbol of the apartheid absurdity. Since it was founded in 1892, the Football Association of South Africa was allowed only to white players. Those whose skin was not white had to organize themselves in self-run associations. Nevertheless, soccer had its way in all suburbs in South Arica and every week the stadiums are crowded with supporters who come to see the local idols, such as Jomo Sono and Kaizer Motaung. Today, soccer is still the most popular and played sport in South Africa (counting over 2 millions associates). For the poor, it has always represented a way out from everyday problems and difficulties.
The children of Soweto will be among the beneficiaries of the project “Una Scarpa per un Sogno” promoted by Muti Onlus.
As soon as possible, a load of sportswear will be shipped from Italy and delivered to the children with the collaboration the parish of Soweto’s Regina Mundi church who will make sure that the soccer shoes and the sportswear are given to the children who really are in poor conditions and deserving, i.e. the ones who attend school and behave like good children should.

Soweto

Hostel next to Orlando

Match box house

Desmond Tutu house

Nelson Mandela house

Regina Mundi Church

New houses from the government

Slums

Non appena ho superato il cartello di benvenuto di Soweto un brivido mi e' corso lungo la schiena. Questo sobborgo a sudovest di Johannesburg (SOuth WEstern TOwnship) e' carico di significati storici, politici e sociali. Ad essere sincero ero anche un po' nervoso dal momento che non sapevo di preciso cio' che avrei potuto vedere e chi avrei potuto incontrare ed anche perche' i media tendono a dipingere questo posto in modo esageratamente negativo etichettandolo con il piu' alto tasso di omicidi e stupri al mondo. Soweto e' enorme ed ha una popolazione stimata tra i 3 e i 4 milioni di abitanti. Entrando da nordest attraverso East e West Orlando (la zona piu' vecchia ed oggi piu' ricca di Soweto) l'impatto non e' stato cosi' drammatico. Qui risiede la classe piu' ricca di Soweto. Questa zona e' sorprendentemente pulita ed ordinata ed ho visto case lussuose con giardino e piscina senza alcun tipo di protezione (a differenza delle case di Johannesburg circondate da muri alti sei metri e recinzioni elettriche). In Vilakazi Road mi sono fermato davanti alle case dei premi nobel Nelson Mandela e Desmond Tutu, situate a soli 200 metri di distanza l'una dall'altra. Questa zona e' stata anche teatro dei piu' sanguinosi scontri tra studenti e polizia durante la rivolta di giugno 1976 quando persero la vita oltre 600 ragazzi.
Esattamente al centro di Soweto c'e' la chiesa Regina Mundi. Anch'essa ha avuto un ruolo fondamentale nel corso della rivolta. Qui la polizia ha fatto piu' volte irruzione per attaccare gli studenti che si riunivano al suo interno durante gli scontri. Ancora oggi sono ben visibili sui muri interni della chiesa i fori causati dai proiettili esplosi dalla polizia.
Quando mi sono spostato nella zona occidentale di Soweto la situazione e' cambiata. Qui ci sono le case popolari assegnate gratuitamente dal governo ai cittadini sudafricani piu' poveri, ci sono gli hostels (fatiscenti capanni in lamiera a schiera privi di ogni forma di servizi) e ci sono distese infinite di baraccopoli. Prima di entrare in un hostel mi sono fermato un attimo per valutare quale potesse essere il grado di pericolo quando sono stato avvicinato in modo del tutto amichevole da un ragazzo del posto che mi ha sconsigliato di avventurarmi in quella parte della citta' e si e' offerto di accompagnarmi nella zona di casa sua in una baraccopoli poco distante da li'. Qui le persone vivono in condizioni di estrema precarieta'. Le baracche sono ammassate una sull'altra in mezzo ad una montagna di rifiuti e sono prive di servizi igienici, acqua corrente ed elettricita'. Nonostante cio' mi e' sembrato un ambiente piuttosto tranquillo e sereno. Sebbene girassi con la macchina fotografica in mano non ho mai avuto la sensazione di essere in pericolo, anzi tutte le persone che ho incontrato mi hanno salutato amichevolmente scambiando sorrisi e cenni d'intesa con le mani.
Colonna sonora: "Apartheid is Nazism" Alpha Blondy

As soon as I passed the Soweto welcome road sign I got shivers down my spine. This south-western suburb of Johannesburg (SOuth WEstern TOwnship) is plentiful of historical, political and social meanings. To be true, I was also a little nervous: I didn’t know exactly what I was going to see nor whom I could possibly meet. Furthermore, the media have labelled Soweto as one of the most dangerous places in the world, with a high percentage of murders and rapes. Soweto is a sprawling city with 3 to 4 million inhabitants. I entered the city through East and West Orlando (the oldest and richest district in Soweto) and the sensation was not too bad. Here is where the Soweto wealthy people live. The area is clean and tidy and I saw stately homes with garden and swimming pool without any kind of protection (in Johannesburg houses like these are protected by 6-meter high walls and electric fences). In Vilakazi Road I stopped in front of the residences of Nobel Prizes Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, just 200 meters away from each other. In June 1976 riots between students and the police took place in this area, and more than 600 young people died. Just in the centre of Soweto is the Regina Mundi Church. This building was relevant during the rebellion, too. The police broke several times into the church to attack the students who had gathered inside. Shots from the police are still visible today on the interior walls.
The situation in western Soweto is completely different. Here you can find the houses that the government has assigned for free to the lower class, the hostels (ramshackle sheet-iron huts in a row with no facilities) and an endless expanse of slums. A local guy approached me just as I was on my way to a hostel. He was very friendly and advised me not to venture in that part of the city, and offered himself as a guide to an area nearby the slum where he lived. I wondered how dangerous that might be… Here people live very poorly. The huts are piled up on one another, with garbage everywhere and no toilets, water or electric power. Nevertheless, it looked to me like a quiet and safe environment. I held my camera in my hand, but I never felt in danger, all the people I met were friendly and greeted me with big smiles and waving hands.

Soundtrack: "Apartheid is Nazism" Alpha Blondy

Mohale - Johannesburg (26.658 km)

Sound: a river, a waterfall and the wind

Beautiful road on the mountains

I met this guy and his cows just after the corner

Welcome to South Africa again...

Some more gravel sir?

Dopo essere sceso dalle montagne ed aver superato nuovamente la frontiera sudafricana la temperatura e' tornata a livelli accettabili.
Sara' sfortuna o forse destino, ma per arrivare a Johannesburg ho dovuto fare forse l'unica strada sterrata di tutto il Sud Africa.
A Johannesburg (Jo'burg o Jozi come viene chiamata qui) sono andato a visitare il museo dell'apartheid. E' stata un'esperienza decisamente toccante dal punto di vista emotivo. All'ingresso ci hanno consegnato una carta identificativa con la quale si viene classificati in base alla propria razza d'appartenenza, cosi' io e l'amica neozelandese che era con me siamo stati separati e siamo dovuti entrare attraverso due percorsi differenti (uno per europei ed uno per non europei). Il museo attraverso l'uso di testi, filmati e documenti audio fornisce una testimonianza accurata e dettagliata dell'intricato, contorto e drammatico sistema creato dall'apartheid. Attraverso quest'esperienza travolgente mi sono fatto un'idea piu' chiara delle terribili conseguenze causate dalla segregazione e dalle leggi razziali di questo paese.
Colonna sonora: "Biko" Peter Gabriel

Back to the flatlands. Beyond the South Africa border the heat drops down becoming more bearable. Maybe it’s bad luck or maybe just fate, but to get to Johannesburg I had to drive along a dirt road (perhaps the only one in South Africa).
In Johannesburg (known locally as ‘Jo’burg’ or ‘Jozi’) I visited the apartheid museum. It was a very touching experience. At the entrance visitors are given an identification form: you have to fill the blanks declaring what race you are. So my friend from New Zealand and I were separated and had to access the museum via two different gates (one for European visitors and the other for non-European visitors). The books, films and audio documents in the museum show in full details the much intricated, complicated and heart-moving system created by the apartheid. This touching experience gave me the opportunity to know more about the terrible consequences caused by segregation and racial laws in this country.
Soundtrack: "Biko" Peter Gabriel