Lilongwe - Luangwa Bridge (17.989 km)

Drowing some clouds in the sky

A lot of coal on the road

The coal guard

Lwanga Bridge

Our Camp

Alla frontiera con lo Zambia non abbiamo avuto grossi problemi, anche se gli zambesi sono di una lentezza esasperante. La strada ed il panorama in Zambia sono terribilmente noiosi, tent'e' che ad un certo punto, per rompere la monotonia ci siamo fermati a disegnare alcune nuvole nel cielo. Per fortuna negli ultimi 100 km sono arrivate le colline e tutto e' diventato piu' divertente. Dopo aver superato il modernissimo ponte sul fiume Luangwa ci siamo accampati al Luangwa Bridge Campsite (S 15 00,302' E 30 12,9125')
Colonna sonora: "C'mon everybody" Eddie Cochran

At the Zambia border we didn’t have difficulties of any kind, but the slow-pacing locals are just too much.The road and views are extremely boring in Zambia, so to give it a break we stopped and spent some time drawing the clouds we saw in the sky.Luckily enough, the last 100 km are hilly, and so everything was more fun. After crossing the ultra modern bridge on the Luangwa River we spent the night at Luangwa Bridge Campsite (S 15 00,302' E 30 12,9125')

Soundtrack: "C’mon everybody" Eddie Cochran

Chitimba - Lilongwe

what a chef! you wouldnt wanna taste my cooking though...
some kids i met on the way. love the colours that africa has.
looking rather rough. biking takes it out of you. sometimes i look about 10 years older after a ride.

well we had a lovely two days at Kande beach. i managed to put my back out whilst lifting my bike up so had to rest on my last day. that evening the wind was howling hard, and at 06:00 as i woke up it started to rain. heavily. and mamma mia did it rain. buckets. so had to pack everything up and get the bike ready to roll. its a miserable sight when your entire world is drenched. i say world cos my bike and my gear is all i have. and so when everything is wet and muddy you feel a little worn down. but you get over it and we just literally waited it out. we got rolling around 11 that morning. another easy cruise. again beautiful scenery. im not going into detail as ill just be repeating myself. but yes, beautiful beautiful beautiful! the grass on the side of the road was awfully high. which made it very dangerous. kids are running all over the place down there and there are loads of goats and cows constantly running onto the road. usually they cut the grass back for safety. its better if you can see them approaching. but like this it was so hard. they could literally appear 3 metres in front of you and you would have seen them coming. so we went quite slowly. about 60km/h. the ride was a little boring for the first 2 hours. we stopped for some fried casava, which is a type of potato, like a sweet potato but not. delicous! the ride got better and i stopped falling asleep. i have a wonderful remedy for falling asleep. i sing to myself. as awfull as it sounds it keeps me awake. and im starting to come up with some pretty horrific songs of late. not in content but in pitch! we arrived in Lilongwe to find a pretty little african town. not the usual chaotic, dirty beyond belief, city. but a nice clean one with green trees, everything seems so orderly here. a nice change. today were off to zambia. and i think we'll be bush camping tonight juts beyond the border. apparently the petrol in zambia costs 2 usd per litre! might be pushing our bike through the place in the end. feels like a bit of the adventure is gone now. everything is so easy down here in southern africa. where are the deserts? i dont wanna see a gas station every 50km, and i dont wanna buy bottled water. all sure signs that were arriving in civilization.

Senga Bay - Lilongwe (17.487 km)

Prima di Lasciare il Malawi ci siamo fermati un giorno nella capitale per lavorare un po' sul computer e per ricaricare le energie per affrontare le terribili strade dello Zambia.
Lilongwe e' una citta' piccola, ma con infrastrutture moderne. E' molto pulita e tranquilla e per certi aspetti ricorda un po' Kigali. La gente e' fantastica, come del resto in tutto il Malawi che forse e' il paese piu' sicuro ed ospitale di tutto l'est l'Africa.
Colonna sonora: "Nel ghetto" Fratelli di Soledad

Before leaving Malawi we spent one day in the capital, in order to work on the computer and for some relax before heading towards the awful roads in Zambia. Lilongwe is a small town, but its infrastructures are modern. It’s a quiet and clean place that reminds Kigali in some way. The people are fantastic, like anywhere in Malawi, which is arguably the safest and friendliest country in eastern Africa.
Soundtrack: "Nel ghetto" Fratelli di Soledad

Chinteche – Senga Bay (17.359 km)

Chia River

Malawi Moto GP

Local Canoes

Lake or Ocean?

In questa zona del Malawi e’ appena terminata la stagione delle piogge e lungo la strada che costeggia il lago fino a Senga Bay si possono vedere moltissime persone del posto intente a falciare e raccogliere l’erba che spesso finisce col ricoprire completamente l’intero manto stradale. Davvero un bello spettacolo da vedere, pero’ questo rende la strada terribilmente scivolosa e guidare la motocicletta in queste condizioni non e’ proprio il massimo.
Dopo circa 200 km abbiamo attraversato un piccolo ponte che passa sopra il fiume Chia (S 13 07,633 E 34 19,517). In questo periodo dell’anno la portata del fiume raggiunge il livello piu’ alto e l’acqua carica di detriti assume un colore rosso scuro che, in contrasto con l’acqua azzurra del lago Malawi, forma un bellissimo gioco di colori.
Arrivati a Senga Bay abbiamo campeggiato al Cool Runnings (S 13 43,860 E 34 37,151), un bel posto sulla spiaggia gestito da una ragazza dello Zimbabwe davvero gentile e simpatica.
Colonna Sonora: “Mr. Jones” Counting Crows

In this part of Malawi the rainy season is just over and along the road coasting the lake to Senga Bay you can see a lot of locals making hay and picking up the grass, most of which covers the pavement. A nice thing to see, but riding a bike on roads like these is rather difficult and unsafe. After about 200 km we crossed a small bridge over the Chia River (S 13 07,633 E 34 19,517). This time of the year the water is highest and full of debris, making it a dark red colour. The mix of the river waters with the blue waters of Lake Malawi creates an interesting range of colours.In Senga Bay we camped at Cool Runnings (S 13 43,860 E 34 37,151), a homely place on the beach run by a nice and friendly girl from Zimbabwe.

Soundtrack: “Mr. Jones” Counting Crows

Mzuzu – Chintheche (17.070 km)

Abbiamo speso l’intera mattinata a Mzuzu cercando invano di fare qualche lavoro sul computer. Qui in Africa tutto cio’ che ha a che fare con la tecnologia si traforma in un impresa praticamente impossibile da realizzare ed ammesso che si riesca a trovare un computer, nella maggiorparte dei casi non e’ in grado di eseguire quello di cui si ha bisogno e quelle poche volte che si riesce a fare qualcosa puntualmente, appena un attimo prima di poter salvare il lavoro, salta la corrente.
Nel pomeriggio siamo partiti per un’altra corsa sulle strade malawiane che sembrano disegnate da un ingegnere della Moto GP. Questa volta, pero’, sono riuscito a controllare la fortissima tentazione di spingere al Massimo i 1100 cc della mia Multistrada, ma ho dovuto fare affidamento a tutta la mia forza di volonta’ (per altro piuttosto scarsa). E’ stato per me come smettere di fumare all’improvviso due pacchetti al giorno di Gauloises caporal senza filtro. Un grande aiuto, pero’ me l’ha dato Herby con la velocita’ di crociera ridotta della sua KTM 950. Per riprendere la metafora e’ stato un po’ il classico amico non fumatore che ti offre continuamente chewingum al mentolo.
In questo modo abbiamo avuto la possibilita’ di osservare il bellissimo panorama offerto dalle colline che fiancheggiano il lago Malawi completamente ricoperte da una distesa infinita di alberi della gomma. Ogni singolo albero viene intagliato e la gomma che se ne ricava viene venduta in tutto il mondo.
Prima di arrivare al Chinteche Inn Campsite (S 11 52,921 E 34 10,120) abbiamo avuto il tempo di fermarci a giocare un po’ a pallone con alcuni ragazzi che vendono lungo la strada palloni di gomma intrecciati a mano.
Colonna Sonora: “Start me up” The Rolling Stones

We spent the whole morning in Mzuzu trying in vain to work on the computer. Here in Africa anything regarding technology becomes an impossible task to accomplish. Even if you find a computer, you can’t work on it, and in case you can, just the minute before you save your work the power goes off.In the afternoon we went for another ride on the Malawi roads; it’s like they have been designed by an engineer from Moto GP! This time I controlled myself from the temptation of full throttling the 1100 cc of my Multistrada, but I made a big effort (actually, I was about to surrender)! For me it was like stopping abruptly from smoking two packs a day of Gauloises caporal with no filter. Herby was very helpful, I must say, thanks to the constant low speed of his KTM 950. He was kind of a non smoker friend who keeps offering you with mint gums!Well, slow driving gave us the chance to admire the wonderful views of the hills surrounding Lake Malawi, sprawling with gum trees. Every single tree is carved and the gum is sold all over the world.Before getting to the Chinteche Inn Campsite (S 11 52,921 E 34 10,120) we had the time to stop and play soccer for a while with some boys who sell hand-woven rubber balls along the road.
Soundtrack: “Start me up” The Rolling Stones

Chitimba – Mzuzu (16.981 km)

Subito dopo Chitimba Herby si e’ distratto un attimo per guardare la mappa e, non riuscendo a frenare in tempo, ha sfondato con la moto la barriera di un posto di blocco lasciando una striscia nera di 60 metri sull’asfalto. La polizia non l’ha presa molto bene, ma alla fine ce la siamo cavata con qualche scusa ed un grande sorriso.
Arrivati a Chiweta la strada devia verso l’interno ed inizia ad inerpicarsi sulle montagne disegnando curve perfette su di un asfalto perfettamente levigato. Una delle strade piu’ belle che si possa fare con una motociletta. Ricorda molto le strade che attraversano le alpi vicino a Torino. Ancora una volta questa moto e’ riuscita a stupirmi positivamente. Su queste strade riesce a sviluppare una potenza impressionante mantenendo una tenuta di strada impeccabile nonostante il sovraccarico di bagagli. Ho passato tre ore di puro divertimento. Sono sempre piu’ convinto di aver scelto la miglior moto possible per questo viaggio. Gli ingegneri della Ducati non potevano scegliere un nome piu’ azzeccato. La Multistrada, infatti, si adatta a qualsiasi tipo di terreno e riesce sempre a dare il meglio di se’ in ogni situazione.
Alla sera ci siamo fermati a dormire a Mzuzu (S 11 27,666’ E 34 01,272) che e’ la seconda citta’ del Malawi in ordine di grandezza e misura la bellezza di cinque isolati per sei.
Colonna Sonora: “Polizia molto arrabbiata” Goran Bregovic

A few kilometers after Chitimba, Herby was checking the map and lost control of his bike. He couldn’t brake in time and crashed through a checkpoint barrier set up by the police. He left a 60-meter black stripe on the asphalt. At the beginning the policemen were very angry at us, but eventually we made it with some excuses and a big smile.At Chiweta the road bends towards the interior and starts climbing up through the mountains. Driving is fine, though, with perfect curves and a smooth asphalt. One of the best roads you can drive by bike. It reminds me a lot the roads through the Alps near Torino. This bike of mine is truly amazing. It is extremely powerful on these kind of roads and it’s very steady, even if it’s heavier than it should with all our luggage. I spent three hours of utter excitement, and I’m sure I’ve chosen the best bike for this kind of journey. The Ducati engineers couldn’t choose a better name: Multistrada. This bike is actually good on any kind of terrain and always gives its best in any situation.We stopped for the night in Mzuzu (S 11 27,666’ E 34 01,272), the second largest city in Malawi: five blocks per six blocks!
Soundtrack: “Polizia molto arrabbiata” Goran Bregovic

Nyika national park - Chitimba

what a mess ive got!

doing what i do best on lake malawi
sunset meraviglioso!
love the kids in this country
my funny posing gentleman

Another really easy day. had a small puncture. a nail in my tyre. great way to start the day. we then moved onto getting past the dirt road section. hit the tar and then started cruising again. reaaaaaaaall......y slowly. as we do best. met a wonderful old man on the street who was posing for me in his bright red sport jacket. cruised into Chitimba beach camp half asleep from the slow driving to find an overland truck full of young people that we knew roasting a pig on the spit. we were invited to join them and proceed to end the day off to a good party on lake malawi, a full moon and so many lovely people. missing my girlfriend a helluva lot right now. its been far too long and i just cant believe how lucky i am to have a girl that supports my decision to go travelling for 8 months. in chitimba i worked on my bike agian. my rear tyre was completely finished. couldnt loosen the 46 but on the back. so took the tyre off without even taking the rim off the bike. it works! well.. sort of. managed anyhow... and had to replace the dot4 in my phantom rear brake. my rear brake has been working on and off for the past 6 months. its a complete mystery to all of us. as there is nothing logical about the way it behaves. i lose pressure, gain it again. some times it goes completely then comes back.... strange one. a ghost in my brake.

Mbeya – Chitimba (16.841 km)

Oggi il clima e’ stato clemente. Le nuvole hanno coperto il cielo per tutto il giorno, ma senza lasciar cadere una sola goccia di pioggia.
Alla frontiera con il Malawi Herby ha scoperto che, essendo cittadino svizzero, non avrebbe potuto ottenere il visto d’ingresso e quindi sarebbe dovuto tornare indietro fino a Dar Es Salaam. Dopo piu’ di un ora di trattative, pero’, siamo riusciti ad ottenere un permesso speciale di tre giorni col quale saremmo potuti andare a Mzuzu a richidere il visto ufficiale.
Il Malawi in questa stagione e’ incredibilmente verde.
La gente e’ fantastica. Molte persone ci fermano per salutarci, per farci i complimenti e per scambiare quattro chiacchere nel modo del tutto amichevole e disinteressato. Qui persino i poliziotti sono gentili e servizievoli e non provano mai ad “arrotondare lo stipendio” a scapito dei turisti come invece fanno molti dei loro colleghi africani.
Il lago Malawi e’ enorme, talmente grande che sembra quasi un mare d’acqua dolce.
Il Chitimba Beach Campsite (S 10 35,103 E 34 10,540) ha una spiaggia bellissima con sabbia Bianca finissima e non ha nulla da invidiare alle piu’ famose spiaggie della costa dell’oceano indiano.
Colonna Sonora: “Ready or not” The Fugees

Today the weather has been good to us. The sky was overcast all day long, but no rain. At the Malawi border Herby discovered that being a Swiss citizen means he could not get a visa, and he should go back so far as Dar Es Salaam. After a couple of hours of talking we eventually got a ‘3-day special permit’, just the time necessary to go to Mzuzu to request an official visa.
Malawi is very green this time of the year, and the people are fantastic. Many stopped us to say hello, congratulate with us and spent some time chatting friendly. Here even the policemen are kind and helpful, and they never try to cheat on you to get some extra money, as many of their colleagues throughout Africa do.
Lake Malawi is huge, so large that it looks like a sweet water sea of some sort.The Chitimba Beach Campsite (S 10 35,103 E 34 10,540) includes a very fine beach with thin white sand, a place similar to the more famous beaches along the coast of the Indian Ocean.Soundtrack: “Ready or not” The Fugees

Chitimba - Nyika national park

pretty pretty scenery
camping at nyika national park

taking some pics of a football on the roadside
getting lost as the sun was going down. that grass was tall!

the day before we left Chitimba i spent the entire day at Hare school taking photographs for the muti book. it was just a wonderful experience being with the kids the entire day. they have next to nothing. we played games all day and had a wonderful time. i had about 100 kids constantly around me. it was tyring i tell you but their smiles and happiness burnt into me with their brightness. the net day was an easy day out, we spent only 3 hours in the saddle. cruising around veeeeer....y slowly. its the best riding. doing 50km/h. stopping everywhere. the road followed the lake coastline . we then broke in land and headed for a national park. a very small one. we had about 70km of bad dirt roads. andwe got very lost at one point. ending up in high grass as the sun was setting. the park was very nice. we stayed on a lake and had hippos walking past us during the night. we awoke the next morning, still alive, and went for a walking safari. only thing we saw of the animals was their dung! so not a successful safari but lovely all the same.